Knowing how to clean a washing machine keeps your clothes coming out fresh and your machine running for years, and it takes nothing more than items already under your sink. Over time, detergent residue, lint, hard-water minerals, mold, and mildew build up inside the drum, the door seal, and the detergent tray, which leads to foul odors and even machine damage if ignored. The fix is a simple routine: run a hot empty cycle with vinegar or citric acid to break down the gunk, then hand-scrub the parts that hold grime. This guide walks through cleaning both top-load and front-load washers step by step, along with natural cleaner options and the habits that keep the job small.
Key Takeaways
What You Need to Clean a Washing Machine
Gather a few basics before you start. None of it is specialized, and you likely have most of it on hand:
- White vinegar or citric acid powder
- Baking soda
- Old towels
- A bucket
- A scrub brush or old toothbrush
- Rubber gloves
- Eye protection
- Unscented laundry detergent
How to Clean a Washing Machine Step by Step
Step 1: Run a Hot Cleaning Cycle
First, remove any clothing from the drum. Set the washer to its hottest cycle and largest load size, and let it start filling. As the drum fills, add one to two cups of white vinegar, citric acid, or a bleach-free oxygenated cleaner to break down residue. For top loaders, sprinkle some baking soda directly into the basin as well, then let the cycle run to completion.
Step 2: Wipe Down the Exterior
While the cleaning cycle works on the interior, tackle the outside. Give the lid, control panel, vents, back panel, and outer body a gentle scrub with warm water and diluted detergent or vinegar, using a soft brush or toothbrush for crevices. Dry every surface with a towel once you are done.
Step 3: Scrub a Top-Load Basin
If you have a top loader, the basin is easy to reach. Pull out any visible clumps of lint and residue with gloved hands and paper towels. Sprinkle baking soda around the basin, then scour the basin, center agitator, and grooves with a brush dipped in warm vinegar solution. The fizzing reaction lifts soap scum and stains. Rinse it clean, using a garden hose nozzle if you can.
Step 4: Disinfect a Front-Load Door Seal
Front loaders take more effort because the door seal blocks direct basin access, but that rubber gasket also traps most of the grime. Remove any coins, buttons, or debris wedged in the folds, then apply diluted vinegar or an oxygenated cleaner and scrub the gasket hard with an old toothbrush. Vinegar’s acidity kills the mold and mildew hiding in the creases. Keep the cleaning liquid from dripping into the detergent dispenser or drum as you work. Because that seal is a prime spot for household mold, the University of Minnesota Extension guidance on preventing household mold is worth a read on keeping it from coming back.
Step 5: Deodorize the Drum
A musty smell from the drum usually means mildew feeding on built-up moisture, dirt, and detergent. Sprinkle a cupful of baking soda into the empty basin to fight it. If you are using vinegar instead, pour it into the detergent drawer rather than mixing it directly with the soda, then run a full hot cycle so the heating element refreshes the interior.
Step 6: Clean the Drain Pump Filter
On front loaders especially, clearing the drain pump filter regularly is a must. Wearing gloves, unscrew the small filter cover along the bottom front of the machine, and be ready for some water to spill out. Remove any thick debris clogging the pump basket, wipe it clean, and check that the impeller spins freely. Reattach the cover and give the surrounding rubber an antibacterial wipe.
Step 7: Leave the Door Open Between Cycles
Trapped moisture and poor airflow breed the black film and foul smells that plague front-load doors and seals. Combat it by leaving the door ajar for at least 30 minutes after each load so residual water evaporates. A weekly hot rinse cycle with no detergent, or a monthly wipe with diluted bleach, keeps microbes in check.
Step 8: Finish Up
Before your next load, dump any remaining water and wipe excess moisture from the drum and detergent tray. Refill the trays with the proper laundry products according to your machine’s instructions, and you are set for fresh cycles going forward.
Natural DIY Washing Machine Cleaners
If you would rather skip harsh chemicals for health or environmental reasons, several household staples make effective non-toxic substitutes:
Lemons. The acidic, antimicrobial citric acid in lemons cuts through soap scum. Juice a few halves directly into the drum or detergent drawer.
Salt. Coarse kosher salt scrubs off dried-on dirt, and it works best combined with lemon juice and hot water.
Tea tree or eucalyptus oil. These essential oils naturally attack mold and bacteria. Add 10 to 15 drops to a hot vinegar wash cycle.
Hydrogen peroxide. Peroxide breaks down residue on contact, applied directly or mixed with baking soda into a paste. Take care with any bleach alternative to avoid corroding machine parts, and always spot-test a small area first.
Use dryer balls instead of dryer sheets to cut down on the waxy residue that coats the drum in the first place.
How to Keep Your Washing Machine Clean
Consistency prevents most washing machine messes before they start:
- Leave the door open after cycles so trapped moisture can evaporate instead of feeding mold.
- Do not overload the drum, since overcrowding gives dirt, grime, and bacteria more places to hide.
- Use less detergent, because excess suds leave sticky residue that grime clings to. Follow the manufacturer guidelines.
- Run a cleaning cycle monthly with your preferred DIY mix to deep clean the drum, door, pump, and seals.
- Inspect the seals and surfaces regularly for objects, leaks, or dark streaks, and clean them as needed.
How deep you go depends on your machine and your water. If you run a front loader or have hard water, lean toward monthly deep cleans and daily habits like leaving the door open, since those setups trap the most moisture and minerals. A top loader in a soft-water home can often coast on a quick monthly vinegar cycle and the occasional wipe. Either way, a little regular attention with items already under your sink heads off odors, visible dirt, and long-term damage. A clean machine is not the right tool for everything, though, and delicate heirlooms still need how to clean antique fabric.
Frequently Asked Questions About How to Clean a Washing Machine
How Often Should You Clean a Washing Machine?
Run a full cleaning cycle about once a month for an average household, and more often if you wash heavily soiled loads or notice any odor. Between deep cleans, wipe the door gasket and detergent tray weekly and leave the door open after each load. Front loaders tend to need more frequent attention than top loaders because their door seals trap moisture and grime.
What Is the Best Thing to Clean a Washing Machine With?
White vinegar and baking soda handle most jobs, and citric acid powder works the same way if you prefer it. Vinegar’s acidity dissolves soap scum and kills mold and mildew, while baking soda scours and deodorizes. An oxygenated, bleach-free cleaner is a good alternative. Avoid mixing bleach with vinegar, and spot-test any stronger cleaner on a small area first to protect the machine’s parts.
Why Does My Washing Machine Smell Bad?
That musty smell is almost always mold or mildew feeding on built-up moisture, detergent residue, and lint, most often in a front loader’s rubber door seal, the detergent drawer, or the drain pump filter. Clean those spots, run a hot cycle with vinegar or baking soda to deodorize the drum, and then keep the door open between loads so the interior dries out. Chronic dampness is the root cause worth fixing.
Can You Clean a Front Load and Top Load Washer the Same Way?
The hot cleaning cycle and exterior wipe-down are the same for both. The difference is the hands-on scrubbing. A top loader gives you direct access to the basin and agitator, while a front loader needs extra attention to the rubber door gasket, where most of its grime and mold collect, and to the drain pump filter near the bottom front of the machine.
