When November settles in, most people think the garden is done for the year. But that quiet stretch before hard frost is one of my favorite times to plant. The soil still holds a bit of warmth, the weeds have slowed down, and there’s just enough daylight for new roots to grab hold. If you’ve ever wondered what to plant in November, this is the season for bulbs, hardy perennials, and a little planning that pays off in early spring.
Here in Oklahoma, the first freeze usually hits between late October and mid-November. That timing means we have a narrow window to tuck bulbs and perennials into the ground before it hardens. I try to finish all major planting two weeks before our area’s average first hard freeze—just enough time for roots to settle in without new growth getting shocked.
November Is Still Planting Season
Planting in November might feel counterintuitive. The air is cool, and most plants are going dormant. But beneath the surface, the soil stays workable long after frost brushes the grass. That lingering warmth encourages root growth even as the top growth slows, setting plants up for stronger starts come spring.
Perennials planted now use winter’s rest to build underground systems. Bulbs, especially tulips and daffodils, actually need a period of cold to trigger their spring blooms. November planting satisfies both.
If the ground isn’t frozen and daytime temperatures still hover above 45°F, you can safely plant. Once you know your local frost date, you can use it to plan the right order: bulbs first, then perennials, then a light mulch to protect everything until spring.
Layering Fall Bulbs for Continuous Spring Color
Fall bulb stacking, sometimes called “lasagna planting,” is one of the easiest ways to get a long stretch of blooms from a single garden bed. The idea is simple: plant bulbs in layers according to their bloom time and depth, so they take turns flowering from late winter through mid-spring.
Here’s how I build mine.
Step 1: Start with a Good Base
Choose a container or bed with well-drained soil. Bulbs rot quickly in soggy ground, so I mix in compost and coarse sand if the area tends to hold moisture. Raised beds or large pots work just as well as in-ground plantings.
Step 2: Begin with the Deepest Bulbs
Tulips go first, about 6 to 8 inches deep. I prefer sturdy Darwin hybrids and Triumph varieties—they handle Oklahoma’s temperature swings better than some of the more delicate types.
Add a few inches of soil over the tulips before moving to the next layer.
Step 3: Add Mid-Level Bulbs
Next come daffodils. They’re reliable, deer-resistant, and they’ll naturalize over time. Plant them about 4 to 6 inches deep. If you’re planting in the ground rather than a pot, aim for a mix of early and mid-season varieties to spread out the blooms.
Step 4: Top with Early Bloomers
Finish with crocus or grape hyacinths around 2 to 3 inches deep. These are the first flashes of color after winter, often blooming before you’ve even put away your gloves from cold-weather chores.
Backfill with remaining soil, water thoroughly, and cover the surface with a layer of leaf mulch or straw to insulate the soil. When the first warm days hit, the mulch can be pulled back.
Best Bulbs to Plant in November (for Oklahoma Gardens)
If you’re choosing bulbs late in the season, focus on hardy varieties that tolerate a quick chill after planting. Local garden centers often discount bulbs this time of year, but check that they’re still firm and free of mold before buying.
- Tulips: Darwin Hybrid, Fosteriana, or Emperor series
- Daffodils: Ice Follies, Carlton, Thalia, and Jetfire
- Crocus: Flower Record, Jeanne d’Arc, or Pickwick
- Hyacinths: City of Haarlem (soft yellow), Woodstock (deep maroon)
- Allium: Purple Sensation or Globemaster for late-spring height
Tip: If you’ve missed your early-November window, you can still “pre-chill” bulbs by storing them in a paper bag in the refrigerator (not near fruit) for 6 to 8 weeks, then plant them in January for a delayed but still colorful spring.
Hardy Perennials to Plant Before the Ground Freezes
Perennials planted in late fall won’t put on much visible growth before winter, but they’ll use these cool weeks to establish root systems. That underground work means less stress when the heat returns next year.
I look for perennials rated one or two zones colder than my area (Oklahoma is roughly Zone 7), so they handle winter dips without trouble.
Coreopsis
Cheerful, drought-tolerant, and forgiving. Coreopsis thrives in poor soil once established. I plant it in full sun where I know the drainage is good.
Echinacea (Coneflower)
Native to the plains, echinacea is right at home in Oklahoma. I plant these in clumps of three or five for a fuller look. They’ll die back to the ground after frost and re-emerge strong in late spring.
Black-Eyed Susan
A pollinator favorite and easy to divide every few years. Late-fall planting gives roots time to settle, and the plants bounce back fast after winter.
Shasta Daisy
Hardy through temperature swings and cheerful in cut arrangements. November planting helps daisy roots firm up before they face summer heat.
Catmint (Nepeta)
Low, fragrant, and reliable. Catmint thrives in neglected corners of the garden and draws in bees before most flowers open.
Salvia
One of the longest-blooming perennials you can grow. I add compost and grit around the roots to prevent soggy soil during winter thaws.
Soil Preparation for Late Fall Planting
Healthy soil makes the biggest difference for success in November. Fall is a good time to amend since organic matter will break down over winter, feeding the bed naturally.
- Test drainage. Fill a small hole with water. If it drains within an hour, you’re good to go. If not, mix in coarse sand or leaf mold.
- Add compost. A two-inch layer of compost mixed into the top six inches of soil provides nutrients for bulbs and perennials.
- Loosen compacted areas. Even a few inches of loosened soil lets roots spread. Avoid tilling deeply; you just need to break surface crust.
- Water once. After planting, give everything a deep soak to remove air pockets and help roots settle. Then leave it alone—winter moisture will take over.
Mulching and Protecting New Plantings
Once you’ve finished planting, protect your work. A two- to three-inch layer of mulch will keep soil temperatures steady, reduce frost heaving, and preserve moisture.
I use chopped leaves or pine needles since they’re light and break down naturally by spring. Avoid heavy wood chips on new beds—they compact too much and can smother small shoots.
If a hard freeze arrives suddenly, lay frost cloth or old sheets over perennials for a night or two. Most hardy plants will recover easily, but a little extra protection never hurts.
What to Plant in November in Oklahoma
Oklahoma’s weather keeps gardeners on their toes. A 70-degree afternoon can turn into a 25-degree night without warning. Timing matters, but so does flexibility.
Here are a few local reminders:
- Watch soil temperature. You want it around 45–50°F for bulb planting. Too warm and bulbs may sprout early.
- Plant before a soaking rain. That natural moisture settles soil and saves you a watering trip.
- Skip fertilizer. Late fall isn’t the time to feed. You want roots, not leaves.
- Label plantings. Winter has a way of erasing memory. I use plastic markers or flat stones scratched with the bulb name.
- Plan ahead. Take photos of where you’ve planted bulbs to help with next year’s layout.
What Not to Plant in November
Not everything appreciates cold roots. Warm-season annuals and tender herbs won’t survive winter soil temperatures. Hold off on:
- Basil, parsley, or cilantro (start indoors instead)
- Summer vegetables like tomatoes or peppers
- Tropical bulbs such as dahlias or gladiolus (store indoors until spring)
Save those for when soil warms above 60°F again.
A Few Extra Touches Before Winter
If you have leftover compost or mulch, spread it around shrubs and trees instead of letting it sit in a pile. Protect garden hoses and tools by draining and storing them. November is also a good time to clean out pots, sharpen pruners, and jot down notes for spring—what worked, what didn’t, and what you want to plant again.
The slower pace this time of year always feels like a small reward after months of tending. When I walk through the garden after planting bulbs, the soil looks bare, but I know what’s waiting below. Those hidden roots and quiet bulbs are already preparing for spring.
